Tune-up - How much?

[Freitag]

I have a Ford truck with a V-6 engine.

How much, typically, should a tune-up be, and is any one place better to go than others? I was about to go to Pep Boys to get cheap tires but WalMart actually had a much, much better deal on Tires.

Basically, I've got 65K miles on my truck, and with the purchase of four new tires, I've realized I'm going to have to keep the truck for another year. The check engine light came on, but with the codes it pulled, it appears that the Mass Airflow Sensor has to be cleaned and it'll be ok.

I think I need to do the following:

1) Change air filter

2) Clean MAFS

3) Flush and Fill transmission fluid

4) Tune-up

Any price ideas?

Thanks!

[Don Stugots]

250 with an oil change.

[drjoek]

V6 65K tune ups usually cost about $450 in my area.
Dont know if thats the same there

[disneyspy]

holy fuck you fuckers pay a fuck load for a fuckin tune n change. here in rube land 100 bucks will get tune,oil,trans and get your car vacumed out

[drjoek]

holy fuck you fuckers pay a fuck load for a fuckin tune n change. here in rube land 100 bucks will get tune,oil,trans and get your car vacumed out

Move out of the sticks you kids
http://www.fredposner.com/uploaded_images/Mr-Wolf-756280.jpg

[landarch]

Buy an air filter at the same wal mart that changes your tires. Probably around 15 bucks. Change it yourself. It takes two minutes.

go to autozone and get a can of MAFS cleaner for four bucks, and clean it yourself. It's that easy.

65K is not enough miles to worry about a tuneup. It is a waste to change plugs or wires before 100K miles unless they are causing the truck to run poorly.

While you're at autozone, buy a PCV Valve. Change that yourself also. It takes ten minutes. Recommended service interval for these is usually 15K miles.

If you have a cabin air filter (not sure if your truck does or not) then find out where it is and change it also. It makes a world of difference.

Trans fluid and flush is usually around a hundred bucks, but I'd wait until the dealer runs a special on this service and have it done there. I'd not trust a wal mart service monkey with a Ford AOD transmission.

If you're unsure on how to do any of this stuff, sink 18 bucks into a Haynes or Chilton service manual. They're not so good for big jobs, but are excellent for the average joe to learn their way around their vehicle--especially for serviceable parts like these.

Good Luck!

[ChrisTheCop]

I love that RF.net exists so that when the little ladies have questions about guy stuff, we're here to help.

[Freitag]

I love that RF.net exists so that when the little ladies have questions about guy stuff, we're here to help.

Isn't that kind of a weak call out? Considering that I pulled the codes and diagnosed the main issue myself?

I can change the air filter, but the MAFS is another story all together. In every single DIY I've read, they say if you haven't done it before, don't do it or don't do it alone.

[Freitag]

Buy an air filter at the same wal mart that changes your tires. Probably around 15 bucks. Change it yourself. It takes two minutes.

go to autozone and get a can of MAFS cleaner for four bucks, and clean it yourself. It's that easy.

65K is not enough miles to worry about a tuneup. It is a waste to change plugs or wires before 100K miles unless they are causing the truck to run poorly.

While you're at autozone, buy a PCV Valve. Change that yourself also. It takes ten minutes. Recommended service interval for these is usually 15K miles.

If you have a cabin air filter (not sure if your truck does or not) then find out where it is and change it also. It makes a world of difference.

Trans fluid and flush is usually around a hundred bucks, but I'd wait until the dealer runs a special on this service and have it done there. I'd not trust a wal mart service monkey with a Ford AOD transmission.

If you're unsure on how to do any of this stuff, sink 18 bucks into a Haynes or Chilton service manual. They're not so good for big jobs, but are excellent for the average joe to learn their way around their vehicle--especially for serviceable parts like these.

Good Luck!

Thanks for the info. I was kind of concerned about the MAFS because I've read elsewhere it's kind of difficult.

I also agree with you about WalMart. When my wife got her oil changed there, someone left their protective goggles under the hood. I didn't find them until I popped the hood to get some fluid in there.

However, my brakes were squeaking a little bit before I got my new tires at WalMart - since then, no squeak.

[ChrisTheCop]

it's just a lil joke.
http://www.smh.com.au/ffximage/2005/04/21/fondue_arthur2_wideweb__430x315.jpg

I'm not a car guy at all.

[boosterp]

Thanks for the info. I was kind of concerned about the MAFS because I've read elsewhere it's kind of difficult.

I also agree with you about WalMart. When my wife got her oil changed there, someone left their protective goggles under the hood. I didn't find them until I popped the hood to get some fluid in there.

However, my brakes were squeaking a little bit before I got my new tires at WalMart - since then, no squeak.

When was the last time your brakes were replaced? If there is a squeak even though it is not doing it now means that you likely need to replace the pads. You want to do this usually when the squeaking begins to save the rotors from wear. What year is your truck?

[Contra]

If you have a straight 6 then you could even do the tune up yourself. Its still not super easy, takes a little time, but greatly cheaper than a garage.

[Freitag]

When was the last time your brakes were replaced? If there is a squeak even though it is not doing it now means that you likely need to replace the pads. You want to do this usually when the squeaking begins to save the rotors from wear. What year is your truck?

2003. Brakes and rotors replaced on Halloween 2007, and approximate 15000 miles put on since then.

EDIT: I think, I'm not sure, I had the brakes looked at in 2008 and they were fine. I think it was just a tire rotation/placement issue and cleaning out the brake dust. My rear passenger tire was on the verge of collapse when it was replaced.

[boosterp]

2003. Brakes and rotors replaced on Halloween 2007, and approximate 15000 miles put on since then.

Good, do you know when the last time the wheel bearings were repacked?

As for the rest, I agree you can do it yourself. As for the transmission flushing I would check with the local transmission shops and see if you can get it done cheaper. A flush is nice to keep everything in your transmission working right (the rings, etc will varnish and wear quicker if not) and will save you $1000 or more when your transmission goes out from lack of care.

Just saw your edit, yea the tires that are that worn can cause some squeaking.

[IMSlacker]

I'd stick with Walmart, last time they threw in a free pair of goggles, who knows what you'll get this time. Maybe a nice socket wrench.

[Freitag]

So I took Landarch's suggestion and here are the deals I found:

Dealer 1, who I used to do business with: $170 for "Transmission Fluid Flush".

Dealer 2, who is close to where I work: $140 for "Transmission Fluid Flush".

Dealer 3, who is also close to where I work: $100 for "Automatic Transmission Service"

Aamaco has a "Power Purge" special for $100.

[boosterp]

So I took Landarch's suggestion and here are the deals I found:

Dealer 1, who I used to do business with: $170 for "Transmission Fluid Flush".

Dealer 2, who is close to where I work: $140 for "Transmission Fluid Flush".

Dealer 3, who is also close to where I work: $100 for "Automatic Transmission Service"

Aamaco has a "Power Purge" special for $100.

Dealer 3 would be where I got service from.

[Freitag]

Dealer 3 would be where I got service from.

Even though it says "service" and not "flush"? It says 5 quarts of Trans. fluid...

Oh, here's the brake thread:

http://www.ronfez.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64439

[boosterp]

Even though it says "service" and not "flush"? It says 5 quarts of Trans. fluid...

Oh, here's the brake thread:

http://www.ronfez.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64439

I am certain what they mean by service but you could ask them. If they say they change the filter and add fluid that is just as good if not better than a flush. The place where the flush works better is in the torque converter which retains a lot of fluid which a simple change can not get at. Either way though it seems like a good deal.

[landarch]

A bit of online looking can save you here. Find out if the trans in your truck has a filter or a screen. If it is a screen, then changing it is not necessary, as a flush will clean it and will also clear out the fluid in the torque converter, as booster menioned. Napa or autozone will be able to tell you if you do a part search for a trans filter for your truck. Usually there is a picture and most times I would think it would specify "filter" or "screen". Or, you could just ask the dealer.

The MAFS is located on the air intake tube, on the engine side of the air filter assembly. Do a Google Image search for Ford MAFS and you will see what to look for. You won't be able to remove it from the intake tube unless you have a set of Torx tamper-proof bits. You can, however, remove the intake tube it is attached to, unplug the harness from it, and take it out that way. Looking inside the intake tube, you will see what looks like a heating element. That is what you will be cleaning. Squirt it with MAFS cleaner (the can actually says Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner--it's a common off-the-shelf item at autozone). Assembly is the reverse of the removal.

If the engine light doesn't go off that way, it may need to be changed, at which rate it will be cheaper to rent or even buy the specialty bit you need than to pay someone $100 an hour for a simple remove and replace. The part is around $175.

[boosterp]

A bit of online looking can save you here. Find out if the trans in your truck has a filter or a screen. If it is a screen, then changing it is not necessary, as a flush will clean it and will also clear out the fluid in the torque converter, as booster menioned. Napa or autozone will be able to tell you if you do a part search for a trans filter for your truck. Usually there is a picture and most times I would think it would specify "filter" or "screen". Or, you could just ask the dealer.

The MAFS is located on the air intake tube, on the engine side of the air filter assembly. Do a Google Image search for Ford MAFS and you will see what to look for. You won't be able to remove it from the intake tube unless you have a set of Torx tamper-proof bits. You can, however, remove the intake tube it is attached to, unplug the harness from it, and take it out that way. Looking inside the intake tube, you will see what looks like a heating element. That is what you will be cleaning. Squirt it with MAFS cleaner (the can actually says Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner--it's a common off-the-shelf item at autozone). Assembly is the reverse of the removal.

If the engine light doesn't go off that way, it may need to be changed, at which rate it will be cheaper to rent or even buy the specialty bit you need than to pay someone $100 an hour for a simple remove and replace. The part is around $175.

AODs have a filter but since the transmission has under 100k on it and while not expensive to do changing the filter is not needed. A flush will suffice.

[landarch]

Not every one. 2000 sable has a screen, so says the dealer. I've never looked into it any further

[boosterp]

Not every one. 2000 sable has a screen, so says the dealer. I've never looked into it any further

This is the A4OD they use a filter. The 03 V-6 pared A4OD is not a bad combo.

[Farmer Dave]

Not knowing your particular truck, MAF sensors can even be clean with a q-tip and rubbing alcohol if you can reach it. It may still have to be replaced later but it could by some time if the budgets tight.

What does your owners manual say about trans service intervals? Are you the original owner? How do you use it? All these could buy you some time or indicate you've put it off as long as you should.

[boosterp]

What does your owners manual say about trans service intervals? Are you the original owner? How do you use it? All these could buy you some time or indicate you've put it off as long as you should.

It should not need this especially with this low of mileage. On this engine it is easy to reach the internals of the sensor, he just needs to have a delicate touch.

[Freitag]

Booster, Landarch, and everyone else - thanks a lot for the advice so far. I am going to buy the supplies I need tonight and work on it this weekend.

I did have a question about the PCV valve though - when looking for parts, the FRAM catalog said N/A - does that mean FRAM doesn't make one or the truck doesn't have one?

[boosterp]

Booster, Landarch, and everyone else - thanks a lot for the advice so far. I am going to buy the supplies I need tonight and work on it this weekend.

I did have a question about the PCV valve though - when looking for parts, the FRAM catalog said N/A - does that mean FRAM doesn't make one or the truck doesn't have one?

You're welcome budday.

On the PCV I would ask at the counter to be certain. I do not have my books here so I could not tell you for certain. I will google it though and see if I can find you a part number.

[boosterp]

Okay, did a few minutes of reading and I found mixed info. If you do have a PCV look on the right side (passenger) side valve cover. There will be a black hose toward the rear of the valve cover and it comes from the intake. If it connects directly to the cover you have no PCV, if it has a little silver or brass colored thing in it, pull it out, shake it a little. If it rattles then you have a PCV. If I remember correctly Ford changed that engine in 2003 because of cam issues, they did add a PCV. I have found parts numbers for a 2003 4.2, but you need to make certain it has one first.

Found the part number here. (http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/fordf-15020012003motorcraftmiev2511.html)

[SP1!]

All that should be in the manual for your truck, its money well spent if you keep it

[boosterp]

All that should be in the manual for your truck, its money well spent if you keep it

The problem with his year of truck is that it depends on a certain VIN letter. It was easier to explain it the way I did prior than to try to guess from the VIN.

[Tenbatsuzen]

The nice guys at Wal-Mart installed the air filter for free, but I watched them do it so I know for next time. I will, however, change the cabin air filter myself.

Next step is cleaning the MAFS, then the transmission.

[Tenbatsuzen]

BTW, does the check engine light go off automatically if the problem is solved, or does the code have to be cleared manually?

[scottinnj]

I have a Ford truck with a V-6 engine.

How much, typically, should a tune-up be, and is any one place better to go than others? I was about to go to Pep Boys to get cheap tires but WalMart actually had a much, much better deal on Tires.

Basically, I've got 65K miles on my truck, and with the purchase of four new tires, I've realized I'm going to have to keep the truck for another year. The check engine light came on, but with the codes it pulled, it appears that the Mass Airflow Sensor has to be cleaned and it'll be ok.

I think I need to do the following:

1) Change air filter

2) Clean MAFS

3) Flush and Fill transmission fluid

4) Tune-up

Any price ideas?

Thanks!

Air filters are 10-20 bucks apiece
MAFS cleaning should be around 80 bucks which incudes fuel injetion cleaning.
A transmission flush begins around 110 bucks and can be as high as 180 bucks
A tune-up on a 6 cylinder should cost 200-250 dollars

[boosterp]

BTW, does the check engine light go off automatically if the problem is solved, or does the code have to be cleared manually?

You need to have it cleared manually. Besides having someone clear the codes the next best thing is to remove your positive battery cable for 15 minutes, re attach it, drive it for 50 miles and see if it lights up again.

In reality I would try a can of compressed air to your MAFS before trying to clean it. Clear the code and see where you wind up. You should not have this problem under 100k, but it is worth a shot.

[Tenbatsuzen]

OK. So we already replaced the air filter, the next step was getting the MAFS cleaned.

I got all the way to removing the wiring harness on the MAFS when I realized I didn't have the tool to unscrew it.

I rolled a hard six and went to my local ford dealership. The guy was a little annoyed by unscrewed the assembly, I cleaned it, and then he re-assembled it.

(and BTW, no, I didn't drive the truck with the opened airbox to the dealer - I used my wife's car.)

I re-assembled everything back at home, then drove the truck to walmart and they pulled 1131 and 1151, which they both agreed would be caused by a bad air filter and dirty MAFS.

We cleared the codes and it hasn't come back on yet. I should know if it comes back up within a few days.

One question - while disassembling the MAFS wiring harness, I noticed that the hose containing the wires was cracked and open. Should I roll some duck tape on it or is that how it should be?

[landarch]

The plastic cover over the wiring harnesses are supposed to be cracked and open. Without that opening they'd have to put the cover on the wires before the plugs were installed. A little tape couldn't hurt but it won't go anywhere if it's left alone.

[boosterp]

OK. So we already replaced the air filter, the next step was getting the MAFS cleaned.

I got all the way to removing the wiring harness on the MAFS when I realized I didn't have the tool to unscrew it.

I rolled a hard six and went to my local ford dealership. The guy was a little annoyed by unscrewed the assembly, I cleaned it, and then he re-assembled it.

(and BTW, no, I didn't drive the truck with the opened airbox to the dealer - I used my wife's car.)

I re-assembled everything back at home, then drove the truck to walmart and they pulled 1131 and 1151, which they both agreed would be caused by a bad air filter and dirty MAFS.

We cleared the codes and it hasn't come back on yet. I should know if it comes back up within a few days.

One question - while disassembling the MAFS wiring harness, I noticed that the hose containing the wires was cracked and open. Should I roll some duck tape on it or is that how it should be?

In 50 miles you will notice if your computer says the MAFs is OK or not. As for the "hose" it would not worry me if that is cracked so long as if the wires within are just fine and no cracks in the insulation.

[earthbrown]

I think I need to do the following:

1) Change air filter

2) Clean MAFS

3) Flush and Fill transmission fluid

4) Tune-up

Any price ideas?

Thanks!

1) $20

2) 1/2 hr labor

3) $100-150, make sure you do a minimum of a 14qt flush or exchange, draining and filter is not enough, not even sure if the new trucks have a servicable filter.

4) Spark plugs and wires $75+-


probably get it done for $225

[boosterp]

1) $20

2) 1/2 hr labor

3) $100-150, make sure you do a minimum of a 14qt flush or exchange, draining and filter is not enough, not even sure if the new trucks have a servicable filter.

4) Spark plugs and wires $75+-


probably get it done for $225

Spark plugs and wires on this year model and engine do not need to be changed until 100k miles although I would likely do it around 70-75k miles.